Patola- A Woven Legacy

The vibrant land of Gujarat is home to a splendid assortment of textile arts & crafts, and if they were to be ranked- the Patola would definitely achieve the pinnacle. As a 900 years old art, the Patola is a chapter of history that endorses the eternity of Indian traditions and the unmatched beauty of dedicated craftsmanship.

An Art of Precision

What exactly is a Patola? A garment, a print, or a fabric? Well, in everyday language, Patola is often a reference to a particular form of traditional wear. However, the term technically describes a weave, a specific combination of weft and warp handwoven with resist-dyed yarns, also known as ‘ikkat’. As a core detail, the ikkat print lends its name to Patola, which is also popular as the single (one-sided) ikkat or double ikkat weave.

The value of a Patola is rooted in the precision required to combine pre-dyed yarns into an elaborate design. Authentic Patolas are essentially made with pure mulberry silk, which extends their life span for decades, further elevating their value and making them a collector’s pride as well as a treasured heirloom.

Patola garments carry instant recognition from their signature grids and flower & peacock motifs, alongside color familiarity through shades of deep crimson, jewel green, royal blue and ivory. Golden zari borders often define the edges and grid lines of such fabrics, adding a touch of both- opulence and auspiciousness. In Gujarat, Patola sarees and lehengas are an unspoken dress code for weddings, baby showers, festivities, and all sorts of special occasions.

A Tradition of Excellence 

In an era when wardrobe trends revise with a blink, Patola continues to thrive beyond the culturally rooted Gujarati community, taking center stage among the icons while trickling as a novelty among fashion experimentalists across national borders. From Deepika Padukone's wardrobe chronicles to Neeta Ambani's spotless public appearances, Patola has not just been a cherished tradition but a language of soulful luxury rooted in irreplicable finesse.

Despite the patronage, commercial substitution of handwoven Patola by screen printed fabrics has brought the craft to the brink of dissolution. Today, the art is kept alive by a handful of weavers in Patan and Rajkot, who are struggling with decreasing demand and the laborious essentialities of crafting a Patola. With GI tags allotted to the Patan Patola and conscious efforts by the Government of India and brands such as 91Threads, the handwoven fabric is slowly reinstating its glory. Recognition from the UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage has further fueled the revival and restoration of this exquisite ikkat weave.

In the coming years, 91Threads envisions not only showcasing Indian arts like Patola at prestigious international events, but also uplifting the community of indigenous artisans through collaborative work and consistent upskill programs.